Sierra La Guasas, Viñales
To sustain the local climbers, please pack extra climbing gear for the Cubans. The Cuban climbers need climbing equipment, as it’s impossible to get it locally. The majority of visitors now follow the tradition initiated by the first visiting climbers, who left their rack, ropes, shoes and harnesses in Cuba. Try it – you will feel very gratified.
You can climb in Viñales for days with just a dozen or so draws, and a 60m rope. A couple of Ts and shorts, insect repellant, sun-screen, and you are packed. Any casa particular will wash your clothes as soon as the dirties hit the floor. Staying longer? Bring a 2nd 60m rope to rappel from the big wall sport climbs, such as Mucho Pumpito or Mr. Mogote.
Josué Millo at Mogote del Valle
Sport climbing in the tropics does not require much, That leaves stowage spaces to bring extra gear for the Cuban climbers. Take advantage, and fill up what you can bring with gear to sustain the local climbers. It is a horrible waste to pay to get equipment into Cuba, and then take it away.
If you don’t have extra gear to give to the Cuban climbers, we will provide donated gear that you can take. The swift introduction of climbing in Cuba was made possible by a dozen outdoor industry companies. These companies donate thousands of dollars worth of equipment for the Cuban climbers. This is an alternate approach to customary “expeditionary” sponsorships: instead of providing gear and funding to climb in undeveloped countries, the companies donate for the Cubans, to bring them to the point where they are a self-sustained climbing community and now lead in the exploration of Cuba’s climbing potential. The participating companies are listed below.
A few suggestions. Most useful are the basics: shoes, harnesses, ropes, chalk, pads, and packs. The Cubans, like the rest of us, really love the accessories of climbing: climbing shorts, Ts, hats, and climbing magazines and posters. The history of climbing in Cuba has been traced in photos of the same PrAna headband worn by succeeding generations of Cubans over a decade.
No doubt, however, the single biggest need is bolts and hangers. In Cuba, route exploration and development takes power drills and bolts. One bolt and hanger, even if available for purchase, which they are not, would cost only slightly less than a month’s salary for a Cuban; an entire route, a year’s pay. A Bosch or Hilt drill could take a lifetime. Bolts and hangers must be stainless steel or titanium, at least 3″ x 3/8″.
In clothes, shoes, harnesses, small sizes are best; We don’t know a single Cuban who uses a large harness. There is a great need for shoes or harnesses for kids.
Almost all good gear is welcomed and needed. Please, no worn out gear or old clothes. It’s so hard to get gear to the Cubans, that it’s a shame to carry old hexes, faded slings, and ripped shoes.
You may donate your gear as you please. We recommend that you leave it with one of the locals who will see that it gets to good candidates. It’s a role that has been accepted by leading locals. Write to us here for the name and contact info on where to leave gear.
More than a dozen companies in the outdoor industry have donated gear since 1999. The companies currently supporting the Cuban climbers are:
Yandy working a new project in 2010. Nirvana, 8a/8a+ ©Yarobys Garcia
Madrock
Marmot
Misty Mountain
Omega Pacific, Inc.
prAna
Petzl
Sterling Rope
Trango
