Where to Stay
Hotels
It is not an over-simplification to say that there are two styles of travel in Cuba. Indeed, one of the difficulties of travel is the lack or restriction of variety. Your choices are state-run/foreign-joint venture-run hotels and restaurants or the network of private homes and eating places. These are known as “casa particulares” and “paladares.”
In Cuba, no matter what the name of the hotel, restaurant, or store, almost everything is owned and operated by the state. Hotels and restaurants are run by government employees, even if operated by a foreign joint venture.
By definition, socialism abhors diversity. Conformity and homogeneity are the most prized social values. Choice, heterogeneity, and competition are denounced. The options on accommodations are not all poor, simply, not many.
Hotel Los Jasmines, Viñales
One anecdote might explain the common approach in Cuba. After you’ve eaten at many restaurants, whether in Havana, Trinidad, or Santiago de Cuba, it may seem that you have been eating the same dishes, as though they were all prepared by the same cook. In effect, they were. The meals were all prepared by cooks trained to cook by the same manual and to prepare dishes following the same standardized menu.
In general, hotel maintenance is very poor, the service worse, and the food only more so. After so many tourists revolted, most resort hotels switched to buffets, so that you do not have to wait for the mediocre food.
Some hotels are in beautifully restored, historic building, such as Hotel Nacional and Palacio O’Farrill in Havana. Viñales has two spectacularly situated hotels, La Ermita and Los Jasmines, on the ridges overlooking the entire Valle de Viñales. To stay at either requires car rental to get to town or the crags. However, paying to use their pools is a very worthwhile diversion.
Restricted range of options extends to the range of prices, as well. Hotels tend to charge about the same, starting at about 50 CUC. No low-budget choices, but no true four or five star hotels either. State-owned hotels do not drop prices to fill rooms.
Casas Particulares and Paladares
Cuba’s charm is its people. The quickest way to meet them is to stay in the homes of Cubans who rent rooms. These are called casas particulares, and almost any casa particular is better than a hotel.
Since permitted in 1993, many Cubans have become casa particular entrepreneurs. Rooms are available at most tourist areas and major cities. However, do not expect to find casas particulares in many other areas, although the same will be true of government hotels and restaurants.
Some casas particulares will also serve food; most will serve breakfast. Legal casas particulares will almost always have a 4 inch blue “A” decal on the door. Just knock and ask. In Viñales, the owners have been putting up signs and giving themselves names, usually including the word, “Villa”, as in “Villa Rosa”.
A typically energetic game of dominos, next to a classic, red 1954 Chevy
The accommodations at casas particulares vary widely. In the 1990s, casas were just a bedroom in a house or apartment that the family moves out of for the night. However, even these cramped, intimate arrangements provided lasting memories and insights into the realities of Cuban life. (Do not kid yourself: even the sparsest casa particular is not “living like the Cubans do.” Not even close.)
Today, the surviving casas have built or rebuilt rooms and baths solely for guests, and added heaters to showers, air conditioning, private baths and even private entrances. A few now have televisions, “mini-bars” and refrigerators.
Staying in a casa particular in Cuba is not the same as a bed and breakfast elsewhere. It may be more like a visit to a cousin you have never met. Cubans are accustomed to large family settings and share whatever they have with family, friends, and neighbors. When you are their guest, they seem naturally to accept you as another family member or neighbor. Very often, once a traveler has stayed at a casa particular, they stick with that family despite other recommendations. Personal relationships are formed. Photos and letters are exchanged. Friends are referred.
Recommended Casa Particulares
The number of casa particulares make it difficult to review and compare them as hotel and restaurants. For example, Viñales is said to have 250 alone. However, a few are truly exceptional. These are practically guaranteed. And they represent the new breed of enterprising, hard working Cubans who are taking the risks of operating as entrepreneurs in a Communist environment. Also they are illustrative of Cuban character: generous, gregarious, dazzling, wonderfully bigger than life.
For casas particulares in La Habana, a personal favorite is the home Esther Cardoso. There are not many casas particularess in Habana Vieja, where tourists will spend the most time. Esther’s house is borders the neighborhood. She has beautifully reconstructed a colonial home with high ceilings, balconies, and shuttered windows. Esther is an actress, teacher, and director. Her group, Teatro Buendia, has performed in Europe. Her living room can include a cross section of modern Cuban culture. Esther is also the mother of Aníbal Fernández Cardoso, the first and leading Cuban climber and author of the Cuba Climbing guidebook. Aguila #367, e/Neptuno y San Miguel, Centro Habana.7 862 04 01. esthercardoso@hotmail.com, esthercv2551@cubarte.cult.cu.
Another good choice is the home of Ana María Fariña and Victor Reinoso. Reasonable prices. The rooms are air conditioned. Private entrance. And there is a shaded, enclosed patio for those hot afternoons or to meet friends. The house is between Vedado and Centro Habana, within healthy walking distance of both tourist areas, Vedado and La Habana Vieja, yet itself in a non-tourist area. Thus there are no hustlers hawking cigars, etc. Also, it is a few blocks from the buses to Viñales. Ana María speaks English. Most important, Ana María is a the quintessential Cubana, savy, sassy, and openhearted. Salvador Allende (Carlos Tercero) No. 1005, e/Requena y Almendares, Plaza, tel. 7 878-2946; anacaribe@yahoo.com, anamaria@isdi.co.cu.
Exceptional Host Oscar Jaime
One casa particular in Viñales is exceptional. The house, amenities, and particularly the food are excellent, but, once again, it is the family of Oscar Jaime and Leida Robaina that become your hosts, friends, and protectors. The Jaimes and Robainas families envelope you with love and joy. The compound of several houses include grandparents, brothers, sisters, nieces, nephews, and cousins. There are so many family members that one must set aside time for the daily Cuban ritual of shaking hands with each man and kissing all women and girls. Adela Azcuy #43, Viñales, ljaime@uci.cu. 4-869-5516.
We recommend these casas because we trust that they will take care of any guest. The owners, with perhaps only one room to rent, may be full, or a group may need several rooms. These casas will take care of anyone we send, and will assure that you are cared for. It is advisable to have accommodations arranged in Havana in advanced. For Viñales, call once in Cuba and know exactly the date arriving in Viñales. When calling any casa particular, it is best to have someone who speaks Spanish. You are calling a home, and you don’t know which family member might answer. Once in Cuba, speaking Spanish is less important.
There are many other excellent choice of casas in Viñales. The families of several Cuban climbers also provide food and lodging. For example, Raúl Reyes is the farmer who’s farm is the access to much of the climbing areas in Viñales, and he’s been the climbers’ best friend. His nephew, Caco, is one of the hot young Cuban climbers. Raúl’s wife, Esthelita, and his son, Yoan, rent in town. Very convenient, just off first turn into town, and you can get a daily ride to crags on Raúl’s tractor! Rafael Trejo # 134. 79 3263. yoanreyes@yahoo.
Finding your own personal casa is a rewarding benefit of visiting Cuba. Bad experiences in casas particulares are rare indeed, while those in Cuba’s hotels are epic – the cold, congealed food, construction work at 6 am, or the all night car alarm.
Costs
Casas particulares are cheap (15-50/day/room) and friendly. Casas are 25-50 CUC in Havana, and less in Viñales. Meals are 6-8 CUC in casas; breakfast 2 or 3. Beer or a glass of rum, 1 CUC. In Havana, figure on a total 40-50CUC per/day, and in Viñales about 30/per/day. For 600 CUC, it is possible to spend a day or two in Havana, and the rest of a basic two week trip in Viñales. Save 15 CUC for the taxi ride to the airport and another 25 CUC for the airport tax.
Camping
Josué Millo slacklining at a Cuban climbers camp
For years, we have have been telling climbers, don’t ask about camping. It’s an enormous effort, and misses the enchantment of Cuba. The response of most climbers is, “ But, where can we camp?”
For them, there is “Casa Gringo”, a cave-camp established by Craig Luebben and Cameron Cross on their route, Mr. Mogote. To find it, walk four kilometers north of town, locate a trail through the jungle to the base, and then complete a 40-meter free-hanging jumar to the cave.
There is a campismo outside of Viñales. It is a compound of small bungalows. In Cuba, campismos are popular with Cubans on weekends, but might be deserted, even closed, during the week. To make this option workable, you’ll likely need a car or a bike.
Some climbers have camped on farms, with permission of the owner. And a few have befriended Cubans and then asked to stay with them. If you do so, however, you should be aware that you are putting them at a substantial risk. The police in Viñales presumes that any tourist is paying for accommodations. There will be no way for the farmer or climber to prove to the police that you have not paid or are not going to pay. It’s called proving a negative. An almost impossible burden. Nothing happens to you, but your host may face ruinous fines.
Paladares
A paladar is a restaurant in a private home. It can be anything from a handful of tables in the dining room of a small house to shaded patio of a 1950s-era art deco house, to a cluster of round wrought-iron tables in the garden of a manor house in the posh area of Miramar or a beautifully restored apartment with high ceilings and candle-lit tables in each room, serving haute cuisine. These places are fun, welcoming, and satisfying.
Legally paladares are limited to 12 chairs, must employ only family members, and are not supposed to serve dishes such as beef and lobster. Like the casas particulares, they are restricted to certain areas.
Cockfights are tumultuous games of chance for campesinos.
As you will discover, there are many “exceptions”, shall we say, to the legal restrictions. Most important, a paladar choses its menu and recipes, and can buy fresh, wholesome ingredients to prepare. A restaurant is restricted to and must accept the food delivered from the government distributor. Almost every paladar has better service and food than government restaurants.
In some places, such as in Havana’s Vedado and La Habana Vieja, paladares also have signs; even if it says, “restaurant,” it is a paladar if it is in a home. Many times, you have to ask, and someone will willingly take you to a paladar and then expect a commission from the owner. If you’ve already found a casa particular, ask them for suggestions.
Among paladares, prices and menus vary greatly. Most paladares stick to a standard fare of “cocina criollo”, indigenous Cuban food. It’s mostly variations of black beans, rice, and meat for around 8 to 10 CUC for entrees. Fish may be available, salads are skimpy, and even vegetables may get cooked in lard. (Country-wide, almost every dish, snack, or drink may include sugar, fat, or salt. Cuba is hard on the health or food conscious and vegetarians, no matter where you eat.)
A special note on Viñales: it has no paladares and in fact only a couple of poor restaurants. The owners of your casa particular will expect you to eat your meals in the casa. That is up to you, but you should not stay in one casa and eat at another.
