Vinales is a great place for steep sport climbing. Every year more and harder routes are bolted and more climbers come down to spent days working on their single pitch test pieces. But the longer routes always seem like a second choice. Both for climbers and route developers. More bolts, more time, more work…its all very understandable.
This year I had enough and convinced Ben in Toronto (didnt took long) and Yarobis in Cuba. And in three days of work we climbed and bolted “Cimarron”. A new 6 pitch route on the right side of Mr Mogote Wall (Palenque Area). I had looked at this line for years!…and finally there it is…no more a dream!
Most pitches go at 5.10 or less except the last one, 5.11. Two 70m ropes are required for the rappels. All bolted 13draws and a few very needed slings to help guiding the rope on the longer pitches. A 7th pitch of V class scrambling could probably be climbed to reach the mogote’s summitt (protecting with threads on trees and rocks) if you still feel adventurous enough!
Good moderate climbing, exposed pitches, aerial rappels the longest route in Vinales with the greatest belay cave in the world and a unique view! Oh God, it was good to be up there!
The name its a tribute to all the cubans, that historically have escaped to the mountains, looking for a form of freedom. From the runaway slaves that used these caves hundreds of year ago to the climbers today. To Iban Echu!
Hope all of u like it!
Salud !
Anibal
Ben Iseman’s pictures
